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Replacing the Power Supply in an N4100 PRO
#1
Greetings All,

I have had my N4100PRO for about 3 years or so now, and am mostly happy with it. I have just replaced the power supply for the second time and thought I would let people know about my experiences. You carry out these replacements outside of warranty and at your own risk - don't complain if it fails!

A dead PSU is the cause of a the nas randomly switching off and eventually not booting. At this point buy a new one!

Buying the new PSU. The 4100 PRO shares it's power supply with some of the Shuttle PCs of old so they are still available. It is an Enhance ENP-2322B, a 220 watt power supply, with just the 20-pin ATX and 4-pin 12V ATX auxiliary connector installed. The 220 watt version of this is far rarer than the 2320, 200 watt variant. There are also some 250 watt versions available on eBay in the states. The unit with 4-drives installed tends to consume around 50-75 watts at peak, so the 200 is plenty! Any of these will do. Expect to pay around £25-£30 ($40-$50) for the 200 watt up to £50 ($80) for the 250 watt version. Using the Enhance model is important, as it is a very specific size, and NOT a standard ATX!

Once you have received your PSU, be aware that it will probably come with more connectors than you need, and these can vary - even between PSUs with the same model number. In the case of the 2320 I just bought, it had 5 SATA connectors and 2 molex hard drive connectors extra, and no 4-pin auxiliary connector! Don't panic. This can be easily remedied.

The next thing you need to do is remove the current supply. Turn the unit off and unplug. Take the hard drives out. Unscrew the three captive thumb screws from the back and the cover will remove by pushing toward the front of the unit. There are two boards visible at this point, the main board at the side of the unit and one with a fan attached at the back. These will pull out backward together with all connectors still on. It is easier at this point to separate the two boards - they just pull apart. You will be able to see the power connectors as you pull back the boards away. Once you can get hold of them, remove them from the board.

Once the boards are removed, there is a shelf below where the hard drives sit. Remove this by taking out the four screws that surround it. Now the power supply should be visible. Take the screws out from the back and push it toward the front of the unit - it should now release and is easily removed.

If you are in the unfortunate situation where you have no 4-pin connector on the new power supply, here is your chance to fix it! Cut the wires holding the old one in to the old power supply about 2 inches from the unit. Next connect the wires to a terminal block. Both black wires can sit together - they are just ground. The yellow wires can sit together as well, although I separated them and had three terminals. On the new power supply, cut the yellow and black wires from one of the hard drive connectors, and wire them to the corresponding colours on the terminal block. If you separated the two yellows as I did, cut into another of the yellow wires on the hard drive connectors and connect it up. You can remove all of the unused cables at this point - just snip them off. You only need the 20-pin ATX and the new 4-pin you have just created.

Install the new power supply in the reverse to the one you just removed and then replace the shelf. Connect the power supply back up. Insert the two PCB boards back into their homes, starting with the main cpu board at the side, and then the one with the fan and now the new PSU connected. You can now test it, so plug the mains in, and press the green button toward the bottom of the front side of the main board. Even with no drives connected, the unit will roar into life, give a re-assuring beep and boot fully. If it does, power the unit down again by pressing the power button once, and the enter button, which is the 2nd from right. It will shut down properly.

Replace the top cover and return the thumb screws. Replace the hard drives in the same order and then it should be ready to go! Big Grin I haven't lost any data yet, and this is the second time I have carried out the replacement. Best of luck to anyone trying to resurrect a dead unit out of warranty.
Reply
#2
Greetings All,

I have had my N4100PRO for about 3 years or so now, and am mostly happy with it. I have just replaced the power supply for the second time and thought I would let people know about my experiences. You carry out these replacements outside of warranty and at your own risk - don't complain if it fails!

A dead PSU is the cause of a the nas randomly switching off and eventually not booting. At this point buy a new one!

Buying the new PSU. The 4100 PRO shares it's power supply with some of the Shuttle PCs of old so they are still available. It is an Enhance ENP-2322B, a 220 watt power supply, with just the 20-pin ATX and 4-pin 12V ATX auxiliary connector installed. The 220 watt version of this is far rarer than the 2320, 200 watt variant. There are also some 250 watt versions available on eBay in the states. The unit with 4-drives installed tends to consume around 50-75 watts at peak, so the 200 is plenty! Any of these will do. Expect to pay around £25-£30 ($40-$50) for the 200 watt up to £50 ($80) for the 250 watt version. Using the Enhance model is important, as it is a very specific size, and NOT a standard ATX!

Once you have received your PSU, be aware that it will probably come with more connectors than you need, and these can vary - even between PSUs with the same model number. In the case of the 2320 I just bought, it had 5 SATA connectors and 2 molex hard drive connectors extra, and no 4-pin auxiliary connector! Don't panic. This can be easily remedied.

The next thing you need to do is remove the current supply. Turn the unit off and unplug. Take the hard drives out. Unscrew the three captive thumb screws from the back and the cover will remove by pushing toward the front of the unit. There are two boards visible at this point, the main board at the side of the unit and one with a fan attached at the back. These will pull out backward together with all connectors still on. It is easier at this point to separate the two boards - they just pull apart. You will be able to see the power connectors as you pull back the boards away. Once you can get hold of them, remove them from the board.

Once the boards are removed, there is a shelf below where the hard drives sit. Remove this by taking out the four screws that surround it. Now the power supply should be visible. Take the screws out from the back and push it toward the front of the unit - it should now release and is easily removed.

If you are in the unfortunate situation where you have no 4-pin connector on the new power supply, here is your chance to fix it! Cut the wires holding the old one in to the old power supply about 2 inches from the unit. Next connect the wires to a terminal block. Both black wires can sit together - they are just ground. The yellow wires can sit together as well, although I separated them and had three terminals. On the new power supply, cut the yellow and black wires from one of the hard drive connectors, and wire them to the corresponding colours on the terminal block. If you separated the two yellows as I did, cut into another of the yellow wires on the hard drive connectors and connect it up. You can remove all of the unused cables at this point - just snip them off. You only need the 20-pin ATX and the new 4-pin you have just created.

Install the new power supply in the reverse to the one you just removed and then replace the shelf. Connect the power supply back up. Insert the two PCB boards back into their homes, starting with the main cpu board at the side, and then the one with the fan and now the new PSU connected. You can now test it, so plug the mains in, and press the green button toward the bottom of the front side of the main board. Even with no drives connected, the unit will roar into life, give a re-assuring beep and boot fully. If it does, power the unit down again by pressing the power button once, and the enter button, which is the 2nd from right. It will shut down properly.

Replace the top cover and return the thumb screws. Replace the hard drives in the same order and then it should be ready to go! Big Grin I haven't lost any data yet, and this is the second time I have carried out the replacement. Best of luck to anyone trying to resurrect a dead unit out of warranty.
Reply
#3
gethyn Wrote:Greetings All,

I have had my N4100PRO for about 3 years or so now, and am mostly happy with it. I have just replaced the power supply for the second time and thought I would let people know about my experiences. You carry out these replacements outside of warranty and at your own risk - don't complain if it fails!

A dead PSU is the cause of a the nas randomly switching off and eventually not booting. At this point buy a new one!

Buying the new PSU. The 4100 PRO shares it's power supply with some of the Shuttle PCs of old so they are still available. It is an Enhance ENP-2322B, a 220 watt power supply, with just the 20-pin ATX and 4-pin 12V ATX auxiliary connector installed. The 220 watt version of this is far rarer than the 2320, 200 watt variant. There are also some 250 watt versions available on eBay in the states. The unit with 4-drives installed tends to consume around 50-75 watts at peak, so the 200 is plenty! Any of these will do. Expect to pay around £25-£30 ($40-$50) for the 200 watt up to £50 ($80) for the 250 watt version. Using the Enhance model is important, as it is a very specific size, and NOT a standard ATX!

Once you have received your PSU, be aware that it will probably come with more connectors than you need, and these can vary - even between PSUs with the same model number. In the case of the 2320 I just bought, it had 5 SATA connectors and 2 molex hard drive connectors extra, and no 4-pin auxiliary connector! Don't panic. This can be easily remedied.

The next thing you need to do is remove the current supply. Turn the unit off and unplug. Take the hard drives out. Unscrew the three captive thumb screws from the back and the cover will remove by pushing toward the front of the unit. There are two boards visible at this point, the main board at the side of the unit and one with a fan attached at the back. These will pull out backward together with all connectors still on. It is easier at this point to separate the two boards - they just pull apart. You will be able to see the power connectors as you pull back the boards away. Once you can get hold of them, remove them from the board.

Once the boards are removed, there is a shelf below where the hard drives sit. Remove this by taking out the four screws that surround it. Now the power supply should be visible. Take the screws out from the back and push it toward the front of the unit - it should now release and is easily removed.

If you are in the unfortunate situation where you have no 4-pin connector on the new power supply, here is your chance to fix it! Cut the wires holding the old one in to the old power supply about 2 inches from the unit. Next connect the wires to a terminal block. Both black wires can sit together - they are just ground. The yellow wires can sit together as well, although I separated them and had three terminals. On the new power supply, cut the yellow and black wires from one of the hard drive connectors, and wire them to the corresponding colours on the terminal block. If you separated the two yellows as I did, cut into another of the yellow wires on the hard drive connectors and connect it up. You can remove all of the unused cables at this point - just snip them off. You only need the 20-pin ATX and the new 4-pin you have just created.

Install the new power supply in the reverse to the one you just removed and then replace the shelf. Connect the power supply back up. Insert the two PCB boards back into their homes, starting with the main cpu board at the side, and then the one with the fan and now the new PSU connected. You can now test it, so plug the mains in, and press the green button toward the bottom of the front side of the main board. Even with no drives connected, the unit will roar into life, give a re-assuring beep and boot fully. If it does, power the unit down again by pressing the power button once, and the enter button, which is the 2nd from right. It will shut down properly.

Replace the top cover and return the thumb screws. Replace the hard drives in the same order and then it should be ready to go! Big Grin I haven't lost any data yet, and this is the second time I have carried out the replacement. Best of luck to anyone trying to resurrect a dead unit out of warranty.


Thanks for this info sir.. Wink
Reply
#4
gethyn Wrote:Greetings All,

I have had my N4100PRO for about 3 years or so now, and am mostly happy with it. I have just replaced the power supply for the second time and thought I would let people know about my experiences. You carry out these replacements outside of warranty and at your own risk - don't complain if it fails!

A dead PSU is the cause of a the nas randomly switching off and eventually not booting. At this point buy a new one!

Buying the new PSU. The 4100 PRO shares it's power supply with some of the Shuttle PCs of old so they are still available. It is an Enhance ENP-2322B, a 220 watt power supply, with just the 20-pin ATX and 4-pin 12V ATX auxiliary connector installed. The 220 watt version of this is far rarer than the 2320, 200 watt variant. There are also some 250 watt versions available on eBay in the states. The unit with 4-drives installed tends to consume around 50-75 watts at peak, so the 200 is plenty! Any of these will do. Expect to pay around £25-£30 ($40-$50) for the 200 watt up to £50 ($80) for the 250 watt version. Using the Enhance model is important, as it is a very specific size, and NOT a standard ATX!

Once you have received your PSU, be aware that it will probably come with more connectors than you need, and these can vary - even between PSUs with the same model number. In the case of the 2320 I just bought, it had 5 SATA connectors and 2 molex hard drive connectors extra, and no 4-pin auxiliary connector! Don't panic. This can be easily remedied.

The next thing you need to do is remove the current supply. Turn the unit off and unplug. Take the hard drives out. Unscrew the three captive thumb screws from the back and the cover will remove by pushing toward the front of the unit. There are two boards visible at this point, the main board at the side of the unit and one with a fan attached at the back. These will pull out backward together with all connectors still on. It is easier at this point to separate the two boards - they just pull apart. You will be able to see the power connectors as you pull back the boards away. Once you can get hold of them, remove them from the board.

Once the boards are removed, there is a shelf below where the hard drives sit. Remove this by taking out the four screws that surround it. Now the power supply should be visible. Take the screws out from the back and push it toward the front of the unit - it should now release and is easily removed.

If you are in the unfortunate situation where you have no 4-pin connector on the new power supply, here is your chance to fix it! Cut the wires holding the old one in to the old power supply about 2 inches from the unit. Next connect the wires to a terminal block. Both black wires can sit together - they are just ground. The yellow wires can sit together as well, although I separated them and had three terminals. On the new power supply, cut the yellow and black wires from one of the hard drive connectors, and wire them to the corresponding colours on the terminal block. If you separated the two yellows as I did, cut into another of the yellow wires on the hard drive connectors and connect it up. You can remove all of the unused cables at this point - just snip them off. You only need the 20-pin ATX and the new 4-pin you have just created.

Install the new power supply in the reverse to the one you just removed and then replace the shelf. Connect the power supply back up. Insert the two PCB boards back into their homes, starting with the main cpu board at the side, and then the one with the fan and now the new PSU connected. You can now test it, so plug the mains in, and press the green button toward the bottom of the front side of the main board. Even with no drives connected, the unit will roar into life, give a re-assuring beep and boot fully. If it does, power the unit down again by pressing the power button once, and the enter button, which is the 2nd from right. It will shut down properly.

Replace the top cover and return the thumb screws. Replace the hard drives in the same order and then it should be ready to go! Big Grin I haven't lost any data yet, and this is the second time I have carried out the replacement. Best of luck to anyone trying to resurrect a dead unit out of warranty.


Thanks for this info sir.. Wink
Reply
#5
Thanks very much for the info. I bought an Enhance ENP-7025B 250W 1U PFC 80Plus RoHS Power Supply on eBay, and it works perfectly.
Reply
#6
Thanks very much for the info. I bought an Enhance ENP-7025B 250W 1U PFC 80Plus RoHS Power Supply on eBay, and it works perfectly.
Reply
#7
gethyn, you rule, this was very helpful. I got a JBrothers power supply replacement for N4100Pro on ebay, and with your instructions I have my NAS back, thanks.
Reply
#8
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Reply
#9
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Reply
#10
I just bought a Enhance ENP-7025B 250W 1U PFC 80Plus RoHS Power Supply from Amazon and was wondering if I can cut off all the extra connectors without issue? It's going to be hard to try and cram all the useless connectors inside the small space for the power supply. If I can do that how is the best way to cap the cut cables so I don't need to worry about shorts and what not? I was thinking of super gluing the ends but I want to make sure that it's ok to do that. Thank you all.
Reply
#11
I just bought a Enhance ENP-7025B 250W 1U PFC 80Plus RoHS Power Supply from Amazon and was wondering if I can cut off all the extra connectors without issue? It's going to be hard to try and cram all the useless connectors inside the small space for the power supply. If I can do that how is the best way to cap the cut cables so I don't need to worry about shorts and what not? I was thinking of super gluing the ends but I want to make sure that it's ok to do that. Thank you all.
Reply
#12
I cut them off as close to their exit from the unit as I could. Inspected ends but didn't worry about shorts (too close to exit and too short wires after cutting for that to happen.
Reply
#13
I cut them off as close to their exit from the unit as I could. Inspected ends but didn't worry about shorts (too close to exit and too short wires after cutting for that to happen.
Reply


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